11 Unspoken Suit Rules for the Modern Gentleman | Aristocracy London

What is the first rule of Fight Club? If you’ve seen the movie, you already know that the first rule of Fight Club is you do not talk about Fight Club. And this is the problem with unspoken rules: everyone assumes they are common knowledge. However, judging from the number of stitched vents and buttoned up jackets we see all around us, we need to revisit this assumption. So, Aristocracy London will let you in on all the little secrets you need to know to pull off men’s suits in style.

How to wear your suit like a pro

1. Fit is king
An ill-fitting suit looks cheap, no matter how much you paid for it. Check our blog for the full checklist of what you need to look for but start with the shoulders: The seam should be right where your shoulder meets your arm.

2. Cuffs
This is another giveaway sign that separates the expert from the novice: when you are standing with your arms relaxed by your side, about ½ inch of your shirt’s cuffs should remain exposed.

3. Unstitch
The number of people walking around with stitched vents is sad so spread the word: pockets, vents and the tiny embroidered labels that most brands, including Aristocracy London, attach to the left sleeve should be unstitched when you take your new suit home.

4. Law of buttons
The bottom button of your jacket and waistcoat should always be left undone and you should unbutton your jacket completely when you sit down.

5. Tied up
Your tie should be darker than your shirt and its width should match the width of your jacket lapels, i.e. slim lapels call for a slim tie.

6. No combos please
Your pocket square and tie don’t need to match, either in colour or pattern. In fact, a true fashion connoisseur will match his pocket square to secondary colours from his outfit palette.

7. How big is your knot
There are many different tie knots to pick from but make sure you always take into account the size of your…head. E.g. if you have a small head, go for the half Windsor knot rather than the full one.

8. Touch and go
When you adjust your tie, there are two rules to bear in mind: the knot should be tight enough to hide the collar behind it and the tie should end at the waistband, barely touching it.

9. Belt or no belt
Belts are not really essential but, if you choose to wear one, it should match the colour of your shoes and all your other leather accessories, i.e. bag, wallet and watch strap.

10. Leg day
Your socks should be long enough to cover your legs even when you are sitting down.

11. Sweat for it
Wonder why some people never seem bothered in a suit, even when it’s ridiculously hot? Well, they still sweat but they hide it with a little help from undershirts or jackets with underarm shields, like the ones which our GOLD collection suits have.

See? There is very little magic involved in looking good in a suit. It’s just a case of mastering a few basic rules and exploring what works well for your body type and personality. For more fashion and etiquette tips, sign up to our newsletter and have a weekly dose of men’s suits and style delivered straight to your inbox.

Originally published at https://www.aristocracy.london on December 22, 2019.